Claude Riffault 2023 Sancerre Les Denisottes

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Claude Riffault 2023 Sancerre Les Denisottes
Claude Riffault 2023 Sancerre Les Denisottes

"Claude Riffault is a shining star in Sancerre, producing suave, texturally intriguing, seemingly effortless wines. Riffault joined the family business in 2001 and was handed over the keys in 2015. In 2008, Stéphane Riffault, Claude’s father, started hand harvesting, a change that has refined its wines. In 2013, the family moved its 15 hectares to organics, achieving certification in 2016, which led to biodynamic conversion, starting in 2018 (2021 was the first fully biodynamic harvest). Still undergoing its élevage in wood, the 2023 Les Denisottes has surprising freshness akin to a shot of caffeine. It may not be as concentrated or rich as the 2022, but this wine shows promise. It positively sings like a soprano, clear and pure with energy and drive. (Drink between 2025-2032)" -Vinous, 91-93VM

Stéphane Riffault (Claude’s son and now the owner of the estate) is turning out Sancerre bottlings that are the envy of many producers twice his age. As David Schildknecht put it, “Make no mistake: this address in the hamlet of Maison Salle (Sury-en-Vaux) is now one of the five or six most exciting estates in the Sancerre appellation.” Given that Stephane’s holdings represent 4-tenths of 1 percent of the appellation, he is clearly doing something right.
 
Based in the village of Sury-en-Vaux, Stéphane Riffault works 33 different parcels in 8 different lieu-dits spread across four villages. The 13.5 hectares of vines are plowed, and no synthetic material is used. Starting in 2017, the property has been certified organic, and unlike most Sancerre producers, the entire harvest is carried out by hand.
 
Most of the domaine’s holdings are planted on the soft limestone soil called terres blanches, with some parcels on calliottes and silex. Minor, judicious uses of oak help to add length to the already precise, site-expressive, and vertical bottlings. All the parcels are vinified separately, and except for the rosé, all the wines are bottled unfiltered.
 
Having studied and worked in Burgundy (and closely with Olivier Leflaive), it’s easy to see the Burgundian influence in Stéphane’s wines. The mastery of minerality standing shoulder–height with the wood is rarely duplicated in Sancerre. Regardless of his parcels’ exposition (many are south-facing), Riffault’s wines are always crisp and high-cut with a jeweled delineation that speaks to the precision and attention these wines get. These are not your daddy’s (or his daddy, Claude’s) Sancerres. 

Vintage2023
VarietalSauvignon Blanc
AppellationLoire
VineyardSancerre
Alcohol14.00%
Volume750 ml
Country of OriginFRANCE
State of OriginN/A
Sparkling WineNo
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